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Auto Gearbox Oil Change


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Poll: Automatic Gearbox (86 member(s) have cast votes)

Has your Auto gearbox oil been changed?

  1. Yes (14 votes [20.00%])

    Percentage of vote: 20.00%

  2. No (24 votes [34.29%])

    Percentage of vote: 34.29%

  3. No, not to my knowledge (32 votes [45.71%])

    Percentage of vote: 45.71%

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#21 andy m

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 09:45 AM

If you've answered yes, please can you tell me:

snip...

Thank you very much



1.not going in to fourth all the time when it did only at high revs then with a thump.... not going in to first except with 1st selected on the auto selector most changes lumpy and late.

2&3. yes and no. at first it made little differance as you can change only 3 litres at a time, but after the third 3 litre change it is fine and has been for the last 20 Kish miles at the time I also did the filter and a good check of the internal and external wiring( all was okay).

get the right oil as well there are several near identical types. I bought mine from Audi, As it's the same stuff (exactly same) and it's cheaper. about £8 a litre/bottle if your having problems then it's a cheap change even at £70-80 for a full change, or £1000+some for a box. I found a lot of information on AG4 boxes from our American partners as they really like autos over there, and are more common.


andy M

#22 ForeverFord

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Posted 01 October 2009 - 03:54 PM

I have a Ford but it's not a Galaxy (yet) at my local (well not that close) and this is what they did - drop pan, empty old A.T.F. then replace for new filter, seals, pan gasket and sump back on.
Using the 'T-Tech' machine via Radiator cooling pipes to remove the remaining old A.T.F. from the Torque Converter then pump the new fresh (my choice of) A.T.F. in.
This is done at every 30,000 miles (including adjusted the Brake Bands) to keep the Auto-Box in shipshape without any over heating breakdowns or any Auto-Box issues.
I have found this kind of method gives no lost of performance or Fuel economy.

P.S. A dirty M.A.F. (Mass AirFlow Sensor) can cause gearbox malfunctions, incorrect ratio errors, loss of 4th gear or torque converter clutch (T.C.C.) operation.
The M.A.F. should be cleaned or replaced before having the gearsbox overhauled at great expense.

Hope this helps!

Edited by ForeverFord, 01 October 2009 - 03:56 PM.

Prevention is better than cure and why wait until a breakdown!
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#23 yaya

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Posted 27 March 2010 - 07:48 AM

P.S. A dirty M.A.F. (Mass AirFlow Sensor) can cause gearbox malfunctions, incorrect ratio errors, loss of 4th gear or torque converter clutch (T.C.C.) operation.
The M.A.F. should be cleaned or replaced before having the gearsbox overhauled at great expense.

Hope this helps!


Where is that MAF located, please?

#24 chrispb123456

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Posted 27 March 2010 - 10:16 AM

P.S. A dirty M.A.F. (Mass AirFlow Sensor) can cause gearbox malfunctions, incorrect ratio errors, loss of 4th gear or torque converter clutch (T.C.C.) operation.
The M.A.F. should be cleaned or replaced before having the gearsbox overhauled at great expense.

Hope this helps!


Where is that MAF located, please?

Hi there MAF is located in the air intake pipe from the air filter it is easy to change but beware of the ones sold on ebay it gave me more problems than i already had, ended up getting a genuine Bosch one from local motor factors :P

2003 Mk2 52 reg TDI Auto Ghia AUY. Upgraded to 7 Day programmable Eberspächer Booster Heater
2012 Mk3 61 reg Titanium TDCI 163ps six speed manual
And now!! with working VAG-COM/VCDS Lite (full edition) what does it all mean!!
Need a code clearing in my area PM me. All done in the best possible taste! a pint of Magners please that will do nicely.


#25 navjam

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Posted 14 April 2011 - 08:07 PM

Not too bad El Dingo, been quite busy so haven't been able to visit this site much <img src="http://www.fordgalax..._DIR#>/sad.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="sad.gif" />

Shouldn't it move faster without pressing the gas because the new oil has less manky bits in it?


The problem I'm getting is causing a slight wheelspin when moving away from a standstill...

Basically what <b>randomly</b> happens is: after coming to a complete standstill and then, when ready, letting go of the brake pedal (to move foot to gas), sometimes the car doesn't move forward like any normal automatic would do, without gas.
Then, when pressing the gas, the engine momentarily revs like it would in Park or Neutral (gets high quite quickly, about 2000 RPM), then the gearbox suddenly comes into action (because of the relatively high revs) which causes the revs to drop down due to the sudden load it puts on, which in turn sends a surge of power to the wheels, which cause it to spin a tiny bit.

This mainly (rarely, although around once or twice every journey) happens when stopping at the lights or at a roundabout but <b>sometimes</b> it has happened when moving away for the first time after starting it, i.e selecting D for the first time for the day.

If there are any questions or things you'd want me to clarify, then feel free to ask.

Thanks


Sanjsanj, i hope youre still using this forum as I have exactly the same problem on my 2001 2.3 Auto - 5years after you first posted this! What was the outcome, was it the beginning of the end of the box? I've also been getting a popping type of noise when it changes from 2nd to 3rd, been getting louder today. Any info is appreciated.

#26 andyfishing

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Posted 16 April 2011 - 04:39 PM

Hi all

I've been a transmission rebuilder for 17 years & have just joined, so I can tell you that if you do drain your oil out of your gearbox you will only be changing about 1 third of the oil the rest is still in the torque converter & amongest the gear train & cooler so you will be putting new oil with mainly old oil. as for the delay engageing drive this is very common & is the moulded piston inside the gearbox which is damaged but if you have the same problem in reverse it would be worth putting a bit more oil in. just so you now a recon & torque converter fitted should cost you around £1200 +vat <img src="http://www.fordgalax...DIR#>/ohmy.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="ohmy.gif" />


hope this helps



Mmm £1200 now that is cheap. Where are you?

I have recently changed the gearbox oil. The car has doen 144,000 miles and I think that is enough. We changed it twice to allow for getting more oil out. Well it was manky, Lots of dirt came out both times. I am even tempted to do it a third time.

Differences:

When cold it is totally smooth
No jolt on changin gears when going fast.
Reverse is very smooth.

It feels a lot better.

Andy

#27 Amarok

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Posted 25 May 2011 - 07:06 AM

After a quick trawl of the tinternet I found this component list for the VW Group AG4 Auto Box
AG4 components

Item 100 (seal) and 450 (Filter) might be useful to change these ?

Edited by Amarok, 25 May 2011 - 07:19 AM.

1997 MK1 Ghia 2.8 V6 Auto
Peterborough


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#28 Amarok

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 06:02 PM

Today I have just done my 3 Transmission oil change the previous two changes have been with Dextron III fluid (red stuff)
For this change I got 3 Liters of the pukka Ford stuff

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and it's consistency is very different it is Yellow colored and pour was similar to 20-50 engine oil !

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This was the state of the old oil and filter
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after a quick test drive the box is changing much smoother, 2nd gear still has a bit of a jolt (I suspect it is worn, but after this change is much better) but the big difference is the noise of the box ! with dextron III and the radio off you could hear some wirring with the pukka gear in it purrs along now. I know the Pukka stuff from Fords is expensive but I feel it has made a big difference . I am glad I used cheaper stuff to flush out the box and a new filter and the genuine VW/Ford stuff should be good for a couple of years motoring ;)

Edited by Amarok, 23 October 2011 - 06:04 PM.

1997 MK1 Ghia 2.8 V6 Auto
Peterborough


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