Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Lack Of Power


  • Please log in to reply
18 replies to this topic

#1 vivo

vivo

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 12 posts

Posted 29 April 2009 - 05:35 PM

Ok my first post here, galaxy 2004 1.9 tdi 115 BHP auto, the problem I have is this, loss of power when accelerating can happen at any speed or revs [limp mode]have had a few garages have a test run the answers differ somewhat, over-boost, under-boost?
Can someone confirm that if the power to the MAF sensor is disconnected that if it then runs better that the MAF is at fault?
:P

Edited by vivo, 29 April 2009 - 05:37 PM.


#2 gregers

gregers

    Eternally ultimate Member

  • Moderator
  • 5699 posts

Posted 29 April 2009 - 09:20 PM

do a search on here for maf and you will find a lot of info on the subject.

#3 vivo

vivo

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 12 posts

Posted 29 April 2009 - 10:18 PM

do a search on here for maf and you will find a lot of info on the subject.


Done that but it dont say if it is at fault or not could be the T-MAP or EGR So I need to clarify the situation :P

#4 Keithb

Keithb

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 41 posts

Posted 30 April 2009 - 08:24 AM

Welcome to the club! (The tdi loss of power club that is)

There's loads on here about Limp home mode or TDi loss of power. Your problem is likely to be in the vacuum hoses. I've had the cat changed - which improved the problem, MAF - no change, Turbo control solenoid - no change, vacuum pipes blown through and checked for leaks. oh and the little paper filter near the air filter - that can get clogged and cause your problem.

There doesn't seem to be 1 cure but anything a little off spec can start the problem.

I've had the problem on and off for 60k miles now - it started at 40k miles. For me it happens under load - towing, full car and generally uphill. My next approach is to change the n75 valve.

Keith
2003 Galaxy tdi115 auto

#5 vivo

vivo

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 12 posts

Posted 30 April 2009 - 04:56 PM

Welcome to the club! (The tdi loss of power club that is)

There's loads on here about Limp home mode or TDi loss of power. Your problem is likely to be in the vacuum hoses. I've had the cat changed - which improved the problem, MAF - no change, Turbo control solenoid - no change, vacuum pipes blown through and checked for leaks. oh and the little paper filter near the air filter - that can get clogged and cause your problem.

There doesn't seem to be 1 cure but anything a little off spec can start the problem.

I've had the problem on and off for 60k miles now - it started at 40k miles. For me it happens under load - towing, full car and generally uphill. My next approach is to change the n75 valve.

Keith
2003 Galaxy tdi115 auto

Thanks for the welcome....Keith....
My mate is a retired Jag Technician he has had a look at it says "it could be anything and I mean anything" with all the sensors on cars today it is bloody "Ridiculous" just complicates matters to the extent of only Albert Einstein being able to grasp some sort of understanding, not even main dealers have the ability to pinpoint a fault it just goes on and on just like some of the threads we have read here and elswhere sometimes a problem is solved but most times they are not?

#6 Scorpiorefugee

Scorpiorefugee

    Super Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 869 posts

Posted 30 April 2009 - 07:12 PM

I like to keep things simple but MAFs can do some strange things.

As far as I can see, if you disconnect it the only thing that may help is that, if the results are consistent, hen the MAF is probably faulty.

When mine went on the 110 AFN, disconnecting it made little difference but when I fitted it to my 115 Ghia it ran like a Ford Popular and disconnecting it actually improve things.

Since then, I have had some codes suggesting a faulty MAF but it is going so well I am going to leave it.

In your case, it may be worth trying one just to prove a point. I'd behappy to lend you mine if you lived in North Worcs.

#7 seatkid

seatkid

    Eternally ultimate Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4988 posts

Posted 30 April 2009 - 07:44 PM

In your case, it may be worth trying one just to prove a point. I'd behappy to lend you mine if you lived in North Worcs.


Beware of strange old men bearing gifts.....
:)

#8 vivo

vivo

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 12 posts

Posted 30 April 2009 - 09:57 PM

I like to keep things simple but MAFs can do some strange things.

As far as I can see, if you disconnect it the only thing that may help is that, if the results are consistent, hen the MAF is probably faulty.

When mine went on the 110 AFN, disconnecting it made little difference but when I fitted it to my 115 Ghia it ran like a Ford Popular and disconnecting it actually improve things.

Since then, I have had some codes suggesting a faulty MAF but it is going so well I am going to leave it.

In your case, it may be worth trying one just to prove a point. I'd behappy to lend you mine if you lived in North Worcs.

Thanks for the offer :lol: .
My mate said he will sort it out he is very methodical and I am sure he will achieve the finished article PS this is my 5th Galaxy but never had a problem before>>>>>>>>>>> :lol:

#9 srafferty

srafferty

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 92 posts

Posted 19 May 2009 - 06:27 PM

Any further on?

I think part of the problem is that when peops get their motor sorted they forget to return to the forums and update us with the solutions! :angry2:

My P1556 persists with similar symptoms. I've replaced TMap, MAF, brake light switch, EGR. I've cleaned out the cooler flushed the engine and filled with 505.01 fully synthetic + new filter. I'm going to replace the fuel filter, just for the sake of if, but I'm certain this will make no difference.

My mechanic told me he had checked vacuum hoses but I'll check them again. I'm also going to remove the cat at the W/E and check that. I checked the camshaft but to my inexperienced eyes at least it seemed like new.

1. Can any-one thee me which hoses I need to check

2. Can anyone tell me if there is a way to check if N&% is OK or not?

Thanks

#10 Keithb

Keithb

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 41 posts

Posted 20 May 2009 - 08:50 AM

Srafferty, since the early days of my fault I've been repeatedly told on these forums to check the vacuum hoses. I've asked several garages to do this and one even claims to have taken them all off and blown compressed air through them. Like you, I've changed the likely parts. The only item not to be changed is the N75 valve. It's a pig to get too and I put it off till last. The other week I decided to have a look at the beasty. Removed windscreen wipers, grill, upper bulkhead thingy and removed the aluminium heatshield. The valve is held on by 2 bolts. 3 vacuum hoses connect to it and I replaced all three. The valve didn't look serviceable so I thought I'd leave it for the moment. 1 hose goes to the small paper filter near the air filter, another goes to the turbo diaphragm and the other to the top of the engine (I guess that's the vacuum feed). Anyway the one to the top of the engine was a little loose on it's connector so maybe that was a weak spot.

I also used vag-com to change the egr value to the limit. Less muck to go into the inlet system.

Since then it seems to be pulling better and hasn't gone into limp mode. This is no guarantee as it usually fails when fully loaded or pulling a caravan.
I'm off to the French Alps this weekend for a week so I'll see how it behaves on some big hills (and having an 8 hour blast on the autoroute).

I've attached a piccy and you'll see my replacement blue hoses with the offending one arrowed.

Best of luck!
Keith
Attached File  N75_hoses.jpg   125.74KB   188 downloads

#11 srafferty

srafferty

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 92 posts

Posted 20 May 2009 - 11:14 PM

Keith - thank you for that. You're in a similar spot as myself. If you come up with anything let me know. I'll do likewise.

Thanks again. :angry2:

#12 vivo

vivo

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 12 posts

Posted 26 May 2009 - 05:35 PM

Any further on?

I think part of the problem is that when peops get their motor sorted they forget to return to the forums and update us with the solutions! ;)

My P1556 persists with similar symptoms. I've replaced TMap, MAF, brake light switch, EGR. I've cleaned out the cooler flushed the engine and filled with 505.01 fully synthetic + new filter. I'm going to replace the fuel filter, just for the sake of if, but I'm certain this will make no difference.

My mechanic told me he had checked vacuum hoses but I'll check them again. I'm also going to remove the cat at the W/E and check that. I checked the camshaft but to my inexperienced eyes at least it seemed like new.

1. Can any-one thee me which hoses I need to check

2. Can anyone tell me if there is a way to check if N&% is OK or not?

Thanks


Nope I aint forgoten it just aint sorted yet :(

#13 nogdog

nogdog

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts

Posted 28 May 2009 - 11:31 PM

I'm not sure if this will help anyone, but I have not seen any mention in other threads so here goes...

The new guy next door to me saw me working on my galaxy the other day and asked, "know much about the bloody things then?" I claimed no major knowledge just general spannering and that the Galaxy afforded plenty of practice! Anyhow his complaint on his identical Mk1 1.9TDi was...loss of power. It had been the same for 6 months and nothing had fixed it.

I plugged into it and the fault codes read off as a mechanical malfunction of the fuel shutoff valve N109. I cleared the codes and sent him for a spin. When he got back (a much happier man) I re-scanned the car and nothing had returned. The car apparently worked OK after that. That was until the end of Tuesday when it was just the same again. This time I removed the valve and gave it a good clean and a new O-ring. So far it has apparently been behaving itself. With luck it will, my new best friend is starting to make a list of problems. :wacko:

It strikes me as odd though that such an error code would cause the car to go into limp home mode without throwing a check engine light. But clearly clearing the error code brought it out of limp home. Well until the valve got stuck again.

Anyhow, I just thought I would mention it.

Edited by nogdog, 28 May 2009 - 11:35 PM.


#14 vivo

vivo

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 12 posts

Posted 30 May 2009 - 10:06 AM

Ok guys it is now sorted.
The problem came in two sections/parts 1> MAF sensor 2> T-MAP sensor.
Changed the pair of them. BUT make sure that the memory is cleared of all faults otherwise it wont solve the problem [Proven] by my mate> after fitting the aforesaid we took it for a run no difference> returned to his workshop and cleared the faults. Took it for a 50mile run under load uphill downhill every which way and hey presto running like a dream.
Next week I am going to get Innotec turbo cleaner to get it the turbo nice and clean.
:(

#15 Rayh

Rayh

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 3 posts

Posted 11 June 2009 - 12:04 PM

Ok my first post here, galaxy 2004 1.9 tdi 115 BHP auto, the problem I have is this, loss of power when accelerating can happen at any speed or revs [limp mode]have had a few garages have a test run the answers differ somewhat, over-boost, under-boost?
Can someone confirm that if the power to the MAF sensor is disconnected that if it then runs better that the MAF is at fault?
:huh:

Hi normally if power loss at around 2500 rpm check and clean T-MAP sensor with brake cleaner, this will take no more than 30 mins . If your vehicle runs better with MAF dissconected then Maf fault , as when no MAF connected the mean settings in ECU are higher than faulty MAF settings.
Always try to swop bits if poss as keeps cost down Euro car parts are very good for the bits, both items would be £40-£65 each. :D MAKE SURE YOU GET FAULT CODES CLEARED then try

#16 wicpp

wicpp

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 10 posts

Posted 03 July 2009 - 11:05 AM

I have Ford Galaxy, 1.9 TDI, Diesel, Automatic, 2000, MK1. Now my Ford Galaxy takes too much time to go from 60 MPH to 70MPH actually when I go up hill it makes just lost of noise and does not increase speed or change gears. If I am going up hill I takes lot of time even to go from 40 to 50. I have read these forms and found that common faults are MAF sensor or T-MAP sensor. I have unplugged the MAF sensor cables and done a test drive but no difference in derive, I mean its acceleration is still poor with MAF detached. I do not know how to test T-MAP sensor? MAF sensor is worth £50 from www.eurocarparts.com But if replacing it will not solve the problem then it will be a wastage of money. So thought to have the fault diagnosed by FORD but they are asking about £90 for diagnoses and upon reading those forms I have found that even their diagnoses is not reliable. Should I go to ford and PAY them for diagnoses? I have also read these forms about VAG com cable and software to read and clear fault codes I need to ask that will the cable sold at ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=280311346654

will it be compatible with my ford galaxy? It is 409.1 KKL USB VAG-COM OBD2 OBD II Diagnostic Cable. I have found that leaking vaccum pipes and some other pipes can also lead to this problem. Can somebody please tell me a list of all the faults that can lead to this problem? Also can you please give me picture pointing the location of component in picture? I live near watford hertfordshire can somebody living around offer me to test my car with his car's MAF and T-MAP sensors obviously if these is not risk of his car parts becoming faulty by putting them in my car? I there any method by which I can clear Fault Codes without VAG COM?

Edited by wicpp, 03 July 2009 - 11:23 AM.


#17 wicpp

wicpp

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 10 posts

Posted 14 July 2009 - 02:17 PM

I have Ford Galaxy, 1.9 TDI, Diesel, Automatic, 2000, MK1. Now my Ford Galaxy takes too much time to go from 60 MPH to 70MPH actually when I go up hill it makes just lost of noise and does not increase speed or change gears. If I am going up hill I takes lot of time even to go from 40 to 50. I have read these forms and found that common faults are MAF sensor or T-MAP sensor. I have unplugged the MAF sensor cables and done a test drive but no difference in derive, I mean its acceleration is still poor with MAF detached. I do not know how to test T-MAP sensor? MAF sensor is worth £50 from www.eurocarparts.com But if replacing it will not solve the problem then it will be a wastage of money. So thought to have the fault diagnosed by FORD but they are asking about £90 for diagnoses and upon reading those forms I have found that even their diagnoses is not reliable. Should I go to ford and PAY them for diagnoses? I have also read these forms about VAG com cable and software to read and clear fault codes I need to ask that will the cable sold at ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=280311346654

will it be compatible with my ford galaxy? It is 409.1 KKL USB VAG-COM OBD2 OBD II Diagnostic Cable. I have found that leaking vaccum pipes and some other pipes can also lead to this problem. Can somebody please tell me a list of all the faults that can lead to this problem? Also can you please give me picture pointing the location of component in picture? I live near watford hertfordshire can somebody living around offer me to test my car with his car's MAF and T-MAP sensors obviously if these is not risk of his car parts becoming faulty by putting them in my car? I there any method by which I can clear Fault Codes without VAG COM?

I have further found oil leak over above my engine today. It is definitely not an engine oil as it is very thin. It also not a power steering oil as it is having different order. It might be gear oil but I can not confirm colour as lot of people has mentioned that it should be red in colour but one thing is for sure it is also thin I mean not very dense like engine oil. It might be break oil but what what break oil can do there that I will confirm today. Can somebody tell me some way to find either it is gear oil or break oil?

#18 wicpp

wicpp

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 10 posts

Posted 17 July 2009 - 10:42 AM

I have Ford Galaxy, 1.9 TDI, Diesel, Automatic, 2000, MK1. Now my Ford Galaxy takes too much time to go from 60 MPH to 70MPH actually when I go up hill it makes just lost of noise and does not increase speed or change gears. If I am going up hill I takes lot of time even to go from 40 to 50. I have read these forms and found that common faults are MAF sensor or T-MAP sensor. I have unplugged the MAF sensor cables and done a test drive but no difference in derive, I mean its acceleration is still poor with MAF detached. I do not know how to test T-MAP sensor? MAF sensor is worth £50 from www.eurocarparts.com But if replacing it will not solve the problem then it will be a wastage of money. So thought to have the fault diagnosed by FORD but they are asking about £90 for diagnoses and upon reading those forms I have found that even their diagnoses is not reliable. Should I go to ford and PAY them for diagnoses? I have also read these forms about VAG com cable and software to read and clear fault codes I need to ask that will the cable sold at ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=280311346654

will it be compatible with my ford galaxy? It is 409.1 KKL USB VAG-COM OBD2 OBD II Diagnostic Cable. I have found that leaking vaccum pipes and some other pipes can also lead to this problem. Can somebody please tell me a list of all the faults that can lead to this problem? Also can you please give me picture pointing the location of component in picture? I live near watford hertfordshire can somebody living around offer me to test my car with his car's MAF and T-MAP sensors obviously if these is not risk of his car parts becoming faulty by putting them in my car? I there any method by which I can clear Fault Codes without VAG COM?

I have further found oil leak over above my engine today. It is definitely not an engine oil as it is very thin. It also not a power steering oil as it is having different order. It might be gear oil but I can not confirm colour as lot of people has mentioned that it should be red in colour but one thing is for sure it is also thin I mean not very dense like engine oil. It might be break oil but what what break oil can do there that I will confirm today. Can somebody tell me some way to find either it is gear oil or break oil?

I have finally got vag-com cable today which looks similar to the above mentioned link but I have purchased it from alpha-bid on ebay and I am using it with ross-tech 409.1 twin usb version and it is working fine. Technically ross-tech software is using it as a serial cable the cable has built in USB-Serail converter that allows it to be used over USB. The cable is working fine. I have been able to find one fault code that is P1550. And the fault is consistent if I clear it and driver my car for 5 minutes it comes back again. The fault code details are as follows:

17958 - Charge Pressure: Control Deviation
P1550 - 35-00 - -

I have cleared all the fault codes and detached my MAF sensor and then driven the car even then I see this fault along with another fault code P1144 which means MAF is detached so the fault comes even without MAF. Considering all this most probably MAF is ok and vacuum hoses are leaking or valve N75 is faulty. But now the problem is I do not know the exact location of vacuum hoses. From TIS I can not find detailed procedure to replace vacuum hoses. All I can find is that some end of vacuum hoses is attached to Air Filter box and the some end is attached to Turbo Chargers and I think that valve N75 is under Fuse Box and I think that vaccum pump itself is behind some indicator light. Can somebody here give me the pictures telling the exact location of vacuum hoses and valve N75? I will be very thankful if somebody can point me to procedure of replacing vacuum hoses in TIS? And from where I can buy N75 for my ford galaxy?

#19 Gerty Gal

Gerty Gal

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 16 September 2009 - 05:58 PM

Ok my first post here, galaxy 2004 1.9 tdi 115 BHP auto, the problem I have is this, loss of power when accelerating can happen at any speed or revs [limp mode]have had a few garages have a test run the answers differ somewhat, over-boost, under-boost?
Can someone confirm that if the power to the MAF sensor is disconnected that if it then runs better that the MAF is at fault?
;)

Hi ya sounds like I've had the same problem I changed my air flow meter, I first disconnected it and it ran better bought a new one and it worked for a couple of weeks , today I have cleaned my absolute pressure sensor and my air flow sensor with hot soapy water and then blew dry it ,erase your codes ,now runs like new and no fault codes are coming up on my scanner,best of luck.
oh and change the oil an filters every 5000 to 6000 miles