How To - Ecu Removal
Posted 28 May 2011 - 11:10 AM
Right here goes. The reason for removal of my ECU was because i was changing all the vaccuum pipes on the car running to turbo(n75) and EGR(n18) valves, and then found out there was a MAP sensor inside the ecu that can often fail as there is a pipe than runs from the Map sensor inside the ecu to the outside of the ECU which in turn runs from the ECU through the bulkhead and into the intercooler to manifold pipe(front of engine).
10mm spanner or socket
phillips(or cross head) screwdriver
Allen key(Possibly will explain later)
T15 and T20 security bit (See pic below)
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DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!
1. First off we need to remove the instrument cluster, so we need to lower the steering wheel as far as the adjustment handle will allow. We now need to remove the instrument cluster surround. Looking at the surround at the top you will see two phillips screws (cicrcled in red) these need to be removed, and carefully pull the surround out toward you from the top and bottom middle.
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2. Next we need to remove the instrument cluster itself, again this is held in with two phillips screws in the top left and top right. Once the screws are out gently tip the cluster forward from the top and slide the cluster out slowly to the right be careful as there are two plugs that need removing before the cluster comes all the way out these are red and black.
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3. next we need to remove the bulb control monitor. This is where the 10mm spanner or socket comes in. Undo the 10mm dome nut (Bronze) and slowly manuvere the monitor out. There are 3 plugs attached to this that need removing, dont worry about getting them muddled up they are all different shapes so can only go into the appropriate block.
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4. Next you will the ECU. First of you need to remove the vaccum pipe attached to the ECU (Top left of ECU) I had to do this by feel. There is a clip on it but i just kept twisting at the clip and the pipe soon came off.
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5. Now we need to remove the top left screw which holds a little metal bracket (you probably felt this when removing the vaccuum pipe) This is where the T20 security bit on a ratchet comes in.
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6. Now we need to remove the ECU wiring loom. This was the hardest bit for me, but hopefully with this how to it will be a bit easier. Firstly as you see the wiring going to the block/ECU connection you may see a little black cable tie attaching the wiring to the black connector( on ECU wiring closest to you), i just snipped this in case it was going to be in the way.
Now if you feel the block connector and work your way up the connector to the far end with your hand there is a slide clip that needs to be pulled away from you( Towards the bulkhead) This comes out quite a long way and will take quite a bit of pulling. (See pics below)
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Once the slide connector is pulled right up, then the ECU wiring can be removed quite easily. It may just need a slight wiggle left and right but should then come out easily. Note. If the slide connector hasnt been pulled fully up the wiring harness will never release from the ECU.
7. Once the wiring harness has been removed, there are 2 more T20's that need removing and then the whole ECU will come out, these are easier than everything else done so far but i had to bodge a tool to undo them (See pics)
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8. With the ECU out of the car u now need to remove the cover of the ECU to expose the guts and to get to the MAP sensor. Here is where the T15 comes in. Just remove the 4 screws (circled in red) and slide the black casing backwards it may be a little stiff but prise it slowly and it will come away. Be very careful once out of its cover as to stay away from any static incase you accidentally damage the ECU internal components. Ideally an anti static station should be used, so just be very careful.
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9. Once the case has been removed you will quite clearly see the MAP sensor (Black box) and the pipework that runs to the outside of the ECU. I replaced my pipework with overbraid vaccuum hose, although my old pipework looked o.k Note:- Be VERY careful when removing the clips to the pipework on the MAP that you do not slip and break the green electrical block (Circled) as it's very easy to slip and break this causing possible irreperable damage to the ECU
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10. Thats about it, i was going to replace the pipework from the MAP sensor going through the bulkhead to the manifold/inlet pipe but mine was in good condition so i never bothered. So in good old haynes manual fashion Refitting is the Reverse of removal LOL.
I hope this has/will of been some use to a few people and if anyone else trys this and wants to add to what i have already posted please feel free.
Posted 28 May 2011 - 04:23 PM
Posted 24 June 2011 - 06:50 PM
Just to add to Andy's brilliant and most helpful post I found that when I pulled the slide connector out it was hitting the tube where the MAP hose connects. This stopped the slide connector coming all the way out so I couldn't disconnect the multi plug from the ECU. This was easily overcome by slightly pulling on the multiplug so it came out a little way. This then allowed the necessary clearance for me to pull the slide connector all the way out and to fully remove the multi plug.
Hope this helps and may save a few minutes of confusion!.
Posted 23 May 2012 - 11:45 AM
i had one issue.
Someone had gone at the 1st bolt retaining the ecu wrecking it.
so no matter what T20 security bit i used it would not undo.
in the end i had to remove the lower panels around fuse box.
and reach up with sockets and undo the tray holding the ecu.
i managed to get the tray into a position where i could get a small pair of molegripps
on the bolt and get it out.
after this i put the tray back and opened up my ecu....hey presto one small black tube with a 5mm long
split in it.....all back together now and running well....
Many thanks to the poster of this helpful post.
Edited by gary132, 23 May 2012 - 11:46 AM.
Posted 02 June 2013 - 09:38 AM
after spending all night trying to work out what the power loss was caused by i tried these as a free fix first, guess what????? ive got the power!!!!!!!!!!!!!, thanks for sharing this mega helpful post, just replacen the rest of the vacum pipes now ,
thanks from an essex newbie
Posted 18 April 2014 - 06:11 PM
Posted 02 January 2015 - 09:08 AM
Remember the turbo doesn't boost all the time, and certainly not straight from idle, so yes, the manifold pressure will be positive sometimes when the turbo is boosting but equally will be negative whenever it isn't. I think the turbo only really starts to boost when the engine speed hits around 1500rpm.