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Brake Line Diagram Rear Pipes


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#1 Audiman

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Posted 29 September 2018 - 10:00 PM

My Galaxy Mk2 2003 TDI failed it's MOT on corroded rear brake pipes 

Has anyone got a link to brake pipe diagram from front to rear brake pipes.

 

I don't particularly want to change the whole pipes from front to rear - maybe there's union under the heat shield.



#2 richyrich

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 09:08 PM

Hi - my mk2 y reg nearly failed last year on rear brake pipe corrosion, so I bought a kit from ebay consisting of 4 different pipes (which I still have). But I found that the joins were just under the front cross suspension on one side so were visible but not really accessible. So I rubbed down most of the corroded areas with wire wool and fine emery paper and rubbed in some grease and now the mot man is happy.
The pipes still felt pretty solid when I prised them out the clips as well.
I replaced some of the clips but couldn’t get a certain type.
Good luck
Rich

#3 BrianH

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 10:25 PM

If they are bad enough to warrant repalcement my MOT tester has been happy as long as the corroded section is cut out and replaced, even if it means adding another joint where there wasn't one originally. The copper pipe is easier to flare though.

 

Try having a look on the parts list here for some ideas how they join, last time i had to replace the whole run on anything the joints were above the fuel tank, right PITA to get to (but given the old pipe actually snapped in my hands as i was removing it did need doing, but wasn't a Galaxy in that case)

https://volkswagen.7...6/6/611-611030/



#4 Audiman

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Posted 01 October 2018 - 11:49 PM

Thanks for the reply chaps - Yes the brake pipes are quite corroded.

Blimey, if the joints are near the front cross member, then thats a big job!!!!

 

I'll have to put joints in the steel brake line. I've ordered a flaring tool - Copper would be easy to flare, I'm not sure if the steel pipes will flare that easy.

Has anyone joined steel to copper using a flared join. [attachment=6735:IMG_6669.JPG]



#5 BrianH

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Posted 02 October 2018 - 02:46 PM

It can be done long as the pipe is in good condition. If you've never used one before have a few practice goes with some of the spare pipe first (you can usually buy 10 metre reels of copper with fittings for around £15 if you look around so plenty of practice, you can reuse the threaded fittings as well if your practicing).

 

A brake spanner (or two of them) might also help if you need to undo difficult fittings as they engage better with the hex heads. The main thing you might want if your flaring tool doesn't have one is something to cut the pipe with - I've used ones like these before > https://www.screwfix...pe-cutter/49428

 

Using those tends to cut down on generating swarf and rough edges, certainly makes the job easier than using a hacksaw as you get a straight cut through the pipe this way.



#6 sparky Paul

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Posted 02 October 2018 - 10:57 PM

Just my two penn'orth, I've joined copper to the steel pipes on the Galaxy, it can be done with care.

 

Use a pipe cutter, as BrianH says above, and a pipe bender is useful if you want to make a neat job.

 

Use grease when flaring the steel, make sure it's clamped tightly, and use a good flaring tool - the cheap anvil types are hopeless for small pipe. Make sure you put the male end on the steel pipe, that way you don't have to do the double flare on the steel. 

 

For a cheap flaring tool, I would recommend the Franklin AF2003 / Powerhand type, the idea is a copy off the old Modprod Easyflare - they don't look much, but they do work really well. 



#7 Audiman

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 07:50 PM

Thanks for the diagram BrianH - also good advice as ever from Sparky regarding steel pipes and lube.

 

Man ..... on another note, I was changing the front shocks, you guessed it - top nut rusted to hell on both sides.

Took me two days to get the buggers out.

 

I thought I was on the home run when the pinch bolt holding shock the snapped in the hub - rust, rust and more rust.

I tried WD40, heat, tried drilling it out - I'm going to get a nut welded to the other end.

 

Away it's Frday tomorrow - have a good weekend !



#8 BrianH

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Posted 11 October 2018 - 10:02 PM

I was quite suprised when taking the scuttle out of mine to find they weren't rusted - the ones on my dead mk1 were rusted to hell and was a job i was dreading having to deal with - Never did in the end thankfully!.

 

I prefer to replace those type of pinch bolts whenever possible for exactly that reason, been stung by it before. The first time it happened on a Fiesta they were different, bolt though hole into a nut, so it was just a case of pull it out and replace it so not major, when its a threaded hole much more of a pain to fix. Its also the main reason I have more than one car!