Relay 30 Replacement
Posted 21 June 2006 - 06:46 PM
Some background, the car is a MKII 51 plate 2.3 petrol Zetec with manual transmission. The problem, lights come up on the dash but no signs of wanting to start, not even turning over. This is not really a new problem for my Gal, it actually did it within a few months of owning the vehicle but it re-started and I thought nothing of it. Alas of late the problem has happened more often till yesterday when it would not start at all and after my tinkering to get to the relay it started but then again today it stopped leaving the wife stranded.
Wisdom from this site tends towards relay 30 being at fault (or on MKIIs relay 27 as marked in the owners guide). Now as I found out last night getting to the relays is not easy. The fuse/relay assembly has three levels, level 1 being the fuses visible from the fuse panel, and level 2 and 3 being the relays. The assembly itself has to be completely removed to get at the relays and requires the removal of dash panel in front of the fuses panel.
fig 1: Dash panel concealing fuse/relay assembly.
Before you start make sure that you have a flat headed screw driver, a torque bit screw driver with bit T20 (I had two, one was from a socket set), a pair of scissors and of course a new relay 27/30 (Ford part number 7203442 but check what is appropriate for your model of Galaxy). In addition to this make sure you have enough room so that you can work with the driver door fully open and have an old blanket or something that you can place on the ground to kneel on when working in the foot well.
Before starting make sure there are NO keys in the ignition. We don't want any accidents.
Using the screw driver carefully prise the panel normally concealed when the driver door is closed. Make a note of the where the lugs are and apply pressure near them (circled in red in fig 2). Otherwise you may stress the panel and break it.
fig 2: Removing the side panel.
Now remove the silver trim just above headlight rotor. It prises forward and has three arms on the back so make sure that you remove each end a bit at a time and not snap an arm off.
fig 3: Removing the silver trim.
Removing the trim has exposed three rectangular metal inserts where the arm slotted in (the leftmost is indicated by the red arrow in fig 3). They need careful removal by sliding the screw driver behind them and slowly prising forward. You may find that the delicate plastic surround will break or is already broken. Mine were so I suspect the initial assembly snapped them. When the trim is in it all fits snuggly so I don't think this is a major problem.
With the three inserts are three screws that will require removing with the torque bit screwdriver. Actually I don't think the middle screw needs removing but I did it anyway.
Two similar screws need removing from inside the fuse panel (circled red in fig 4). These can be tricky because the fuse panel flap makes any decent sized screwdriver awkward to use. This is where the socket set with a torque bit helped.
fig 4: Fuse panel screws.
Now work the entire panel slowly forward towards you. If it will not move you may need to prise up two slot-in catches located that are at the top of the panel and are normally concealed behind the silver trim removed earlier. In addition to this there are two lugs in the leftmost bottom corner of the panel that hold the panel to the neighbouring dashboard panel. They are tricky to separate and slide horizontally away from the dash (indicated by the red arrows in fig 5).
Once the panel starts to come away disconnect the headlight rotor connector and the headlight alignment connector.
fig 5: Bottom leftmost lugs.
Once the dash is free lay it carefully in the footwell. The engine diagnostics connector is still attached to the panel so you cannot remove it fully. To stop additional stress on the diagnostics cable remove the plastic panel with the foam insulation. Push it left or right and one end just pops off (bottom red arrow in fig 6).
fig 6: The exposed fuse/relay assembly.
To remove the fuse/relay assembly a single screw needs to be removed from the assembly frame (upper red arrow in fig 6).
fig 7: White clips.
Now release the white clips at the bottom of the fuse/relay assembly. There is one either side and they click forward (lower red arrow in fig 7). The assembly won't yet slide up and forward because just above the each clip in the assembly frame there is a lug (upper red arrow fig 8). The frame needs to be eased apart gently and the assembly gently slide up and forward. Care must be taken as there a lot of wires and connectors in the vicinty. A primary wiring loom travels up the back of the assembly and it must not be damaged.
fig 8: Right white clip and assembly lug.
You may not be able to tilt the assembly down and get access to level 2 because of the main wiring loom. There may by cable ties holding the loom tight against the level 2 assembly. You may need to snip and remove them. Take care not to snip any wires or the loom!
fig 9: Getting access to level 3.
The level 2 assembly clips into level 3 assembly. Easing the clips apart allows level 2 to be tilted forward and out of the way (clips marked by red arrows in fig 9). Once again this may only be possible once the ties around the main loom have been removed.
fig 10: Revealing the beast that is relay 30.
Now level 3 should be visible, identifiable by one or more large fuses and the infamous relay (indicated by the red arrow in fig 10). In reality the relay is labelled 30 even though the owners guide refers to it as R27 so always check when you purchase your relay. The relay pushes in so gently prise it out and replace it with the new relay. For peace of mind give all the other relays a push home in case one was disturbed during disassembly.
At this point you may want to see if your lovely Galaxy will start. If it doesn't then panic. Hopefully it will.
Now reverse the entire procedure. Carefully return the level 2 assembly back to it's correct position. Slot in the bottom edge first and push the clips home. Lift the entire assembly up into the correct orientation and carefully slide the base into the grooves where the white catches are. I had to push the white catches back first, slot in the assembly and then bring them forward again before clicking them into place. Make sure the lugs above the catches are also correctly located.
Return the screw attaching the assembly top to the assembly framework (fig 6). Carefully lift and push the fuse panel dashboard back over the assembly making sure that the top and the leftmost bottom lugs align and engage correctly with the other parts of the dash.
Return the three screws at the top of the panel and then the two screws inside the fuse access flap. Then replace the small panel located directly under fuse assembly. This is best done with fuse panel open, so revealing the lips on the bottom of the fuse/relay assembly frame (fig 6).
Re-insert the inserts at the top of the panel and replace the silver trim, careful again not to break the arms. Finally slot in the panel normally concealed when the drivers door is shut. If you have any parts left over then panic (I had a rubber block from somewhere, I assume it was just packing).
Of course you follow these instructions at your own risk.
Posted 21 June 2006 - 11:47 PM
By the way, there are no reassembly instructions!!
Oh, I've just spotted the reassembly notes...sorry...was totally confused by then! Great post though, very useful.
Posted 22 June 2006 - 08:45 AM
I understand that failure of relay 30 (power boot relay) is a well known problem on Mk1s (only up to 98?).
My MK2 handbook (car registered April 2001) lists relay position 30 as not used. No other relay is listed as the power boot relay.
A previous thread suggested that relay 27 on the MK2 had superseded relay 30.
My handbook lists relay 27 as "Fuel Supply (DOHC Engines)". Whilst I can see that failure of that relay would lead to cutting out of the engine I can't see that it would prevent the engine turning over.
Another member with none starting and cutting out problems on his MK2 2.3 has been told by his dealer that they relaced the Power Boot relay, but they didn't tell him which relay it was.
One explanation is that the handbook is wrong (not for the first time) and relay 27 is the power boot relay, however the none starting / power boot relay is a problem that has been mentioned occasionally on Diesels, on whch I presume relay 27 is ommited.
Any thoughts ?
Posted 11 July 2006 - 05:44 PM
Perhaps the admin/a mod could create a subsection in this forum for these handy "walkthroughs". They could then all me moved and pinned there.They would be easier to find all in one place than having to word search.
Just a thought!!!!
Posted 22 August 2006 - 01:19 PM
Many thanks for pointer to the troublesome relay 30 as it has helped me to cure my non-starter 1995 Galaxy GLX in next to no time!
However, on this model there only appears to be ONE level of fuses/relays and relay 30 is immediately visible after removing the cover.
A possible workaround to replacing relay 30, is to remove the relay outer (black) cover by gently prising it off; a small screwdriver (or two) can be used to move out the lugs which hold the cover onto the relay. The relay can then be re-inserted (minus cover) and it's operation observed whilst operating the ignition key; I believe that the relay should visibly close (and audibly click) when the ignition is operated.
In my case, the relay did not click/close and to remedy this, I gently reset the relay spring/contact by hand a few times. After doing this the relay returned to life and I believe that the "buzz" of the fuel pump could now be heard.
Hope this may help someone get out of trouble and it is only recomended as a "get home" measure (at one's own risk, etc) .
Posted 05 September 2006 - 01:29 PM
Grade A++ - top ebayer etc
well, worthy of great feedback
Just thought it worth mentioning that the problem with my relay 30 turned out to be dry solder joints on the PCB that the relay is mounted on. These were re-soldered some weeks ago and I have not had a single non-starting proble since!
Not sure if this is the same cause for others but it is probably worth checking to save time and money!
Posted 16 June 2007 - 09:44 PM
Posted 13 July 2007 - 08:18 PM
I have a 1998 ( i think mk2 therefore) 2.3 petrol
Last november i had intermittent starting problems. Much the same as everyone else describes.... car would start fine for ages, then refuse to start... wait a few moments and it would start and drive happy as larry.
Finally it refused to start. got it towed to the local Fraud dealer who diagnosed the wonderful relay 30 as the problem.
They replaced the relay ( in exchange for £178 ).
A few months ago i began to have intermittant cut outs whilst driving along. I this has happened to you, then you will know that its not fun ! You get one go at the brakes, then its handbrake time.
Any way A BIG THANKYOU to this forum as i decided to replace relay 30 again and its been fine for a month. I have 2 relay layout diagrams, one bears no resemblance to the relay layout ( thats the original owners manual), the other looks like a supplement, that exactly matches the relay layout. In this supplement Relay 27, is the position of the relay, but Relay 30 is the relay marking code. ( hence the confusion)
Heres the rub, the relay 30 i took out, looks very old and very scratched, funny that for a relay thats only been installed for 6 months !
If anyone is going to have a go at replacing relay 30, then i would say try it, the good old Haynes manual gives good advice on how to get to it, then its a doddle.
Posted 16 September 2008 - 03:04 PM
My 03 galaxy is having this problem - Occasionally it won't start, particularly after just stopping for a second to nip into shops et, e.g. when the systems hot.
so, sorry for the dumb newbie question:
where do i go to buy one of these number 30 relays?
There's a parkers (the parts people) near my house... will they have one? or halfords - or do i have to go to a ford dealer?
Posted 26 October 2008 - 01:39 PM
Posted 26 October 2008 - 07:57 PM
Having located the relay, thanks to this site, I soldered the legs which had a dry joint, and it lasted for two years until I sold it on.
The dry joint was also flagged from this site, If you are confident at soldering, saves the cost of a new relay.
Hope this helps someone,