Ebay Brake Pads And Disc

[mumof4]

Thats why you research rather than just buy!!..compare prices with other sellers/the high street etcc..always check feedback..and read what peeps say rather than just look at the score.Take your time to look at diff products....its how i buy stuff from E-bay and why it took me a couple of months before i finally bought a new MAF from Ebay.

[chicosi]

Turk90210

 

I know discs aren't supposed to look like that, but what are we actually looking at and how did it happen?

[sparky Paul]

Don't get me wrong - I use Ebay to buy lots of things, and with care, many extremely good buys can be had. But for safety related items such as brake components, steer well clear. The cheap brake pads on Ebay will probably be copies of very dubious quality, and the so-called 'OEM' ones will probably cost more than places like Eurocarparts anyway.

 

I would have to agree about the really cheap unbranded ones,

Edited June 18, 2007 by sparky Paul

[tim-spam]

Yes, but the OEM parts have been properly tested and approved for the vehicle, whereas the alternatives have not. For example, although you and others may have found the performance of alternatives to be 'very good indeed' (and the performance may actually be 'very good indeed' - who knows?), you do not know how good or bad the performance actually is because you do not have access to the test facilities that the manufacturer has. For example, how is the front / rear balance affected? What about wear rate, brake fade, frictional performance in adverse weather conditions, etc.?

My approach is quite simple: by doing the job myself, I am already saving a packet - if I can make further savings by buying OEM parts at reduced prices, then that's great. Saving even more by buying pattern parts for safety related items is just a 'bridge too far'.

Edited June 18, 2007 by tim-spam

[sparky Paul]

Yes, but the OEM parts have been properly tested and approved for the vehicle, whereas the alternatives have not. For example, although you and others may have found the performance of alternatives to be 'very good indeed' (and the performance may actually be 'very good indeed' - who knows?), you do not know how good or bad the performance actually is because you do not have access to the test facilities that the manufacturer has. For example, how is the front / rear balance affected? What about wear rate, brake fade, frictional performance in adverse weather conditions, etc.?

My approach is quite simple: by doing the job myself, I am already saving a packet - if I can make further savings by buying OEM parts at reduced prices, then that is great. Saving even more by buying pattern parts for safety related items is just a 'bridge too far'.

 

I know what you're saying, but even the 'OEM' 288mm discs and pads supplied by ECP are Bendix Jurid, not genuine ATE discs or pads.

 

Having said that, I've used Bendix replacement discs, and they are very good too. Even ATE manufacture replacement discs for cars for which they do not OEM, I reckon one of the local factors supplies them in sets with the pads.

 

I can only go on my current and previous experience with the Mintex bits, these fronts have almost 30K miles on them without a problem, and the discs are wearing perfectly flat. I've been using pattern brake parts from reputable manufacturers for many years now - without any problems or noticable difference in performance and/or wear rate, though I will always stick to recognised premium brands - and will never touch unbranded parts.

Edited June 18, 2007 by sparky Paul

[tim-spam]

ATE pads are the genuine article and the ECP part number ends in a '5' to denote this. The Jurid ones are not, and the ECP part number ends in a '0' to denote this.

 

As I said, parts from reputable manufacturers are probably perfectly fine. On the other hand, OEM parts are definitely perfectly fine.

 

By the way, it always pays to check prices - there have been occasions when I've gone to my local VW dealer for parts that have been no cheaper at ECP.

[sparky Paul]

ATE pads are the genuine article and the ECP part number ends in a '5' to denote this. The Jurid ones are not, and the ECP part number ends in a '0' to denote this.

 

As I said, parts from reputable manufacturers are probably perfectly fine. On the other hand, OEM parts are definitely perfectly fine.

 

By the way, it always pays to check prices - there have been occasions when I've gone to my local VW dealer for parts that have been no cheaper at ECP.

 

What I was alluding to is that ECP don't actually stock the the 288mm ATE discs, and even the 'OEM' quality Bendix Jurid ones (104440610) they do stock are much dearer than the Mintex ones. ECP do stock a cheaper alternative (104440611).

 

About their part numbers, ECP say

If you have more than one part number showing on the search results page - check the first 8 digits, if they are identical in more than 1 of the parts showing, the difference between them is their make. For example: 332456780, 332456781 and 332456785 are all water pumps for a Saab except '0' indicates 'Original Equipment Manufacture', '1' indicates 'Alternative Quality Brand' and '5' indicates 'Genuine Part'.

 

You should be able to get the ATE ones from the Fraud dealer, or indeed the VW dealers as you suggested, and you're right about checking the prices - sometimes the main dealer parts can be very reasonable. Having said that, I'm pretty sure some of the 'Motorcraft' branded parts I've had from Ford have been pattern parts...

[familyman]

Hi,

My passenger side front brake has a ginding noise ,on and off, I would like to have a

go at changing the the pads and discs. Found on Ebay for around 45 pounds:

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SEAT-ALHAMBRA-FRONT-...VQQcmdZViewItem

 

Would you recommended it??

How big is this job for a DIY average guy?

I have read JDF guide but not sure about these steps:

 

9. Clamp flexible brake hose.

10. Attach clear tubing to bleed nipple and slacken off bleed nipple.

11. Slowly push piston back home (used

[seatkid]

Sure you have to wind in the piston clockwise rather than just push it back

 

No..... thats the REAR brake disc pistons you wind back (self adjusing handbrake mechanism)

 

You just push the FRONT brake pistons back (with the nipple open to stop dirt fluid going back into the ABS control block etc.)

[lim]

this nipple thingy/joke seem to stick out in this forum.

 

I am off to halford to get the copper grease,7mm hex key and checked

out their price on the disc and pads, just to make sure I have got everything before

I started the job, most likely on Saturday,hope it don't rain.

 

I understand some people are worried about buying items from Ebay,

but personally I am OK about it. Had brought a few things before and they are all ok.

The point is how many of us checked the parts that a garage had installed, ie brakes,oil,...etc.

We trusted them to use proper manufacturer parts,how can we tell?? or know if they don't.

They might have used the so called cheap parts, most parts are not marked/branded, ..I know

parts like Oil filter,spark plugs,tyres etc, you can tell easily but a lot you can't....but we are happy about it.

That's one reason why I started to DIY,...at least I know and it's my choice.

[big_kev]

Lim,

 

Tottaly agree with your reply, Fraud's as we know are generally terrible when it comes to repairs and I would not be suprised if they are using dodgy components.

 

Classic example is "genuine Ford Parts" ....on a VW !, yeh right......so what actual make are some of these parts then ?

 

As he said at least if you do it yourself you know what has been used.

[seatkid]

Ummm....do you really know what you're fitting?

 

Any official dealer would always use genuine parts unless specifically told to, thats the point of the franchise. In addition its a simple thing to ask the dealer for evidence of original parts being used. They all have fully traceable QA systems linked to the manufacturers (at least those I use have).

 

The quality and price of work carried out by dealers are the only things I have issues with. But I always consider buying the genuine part from the dealer, in a lot of cases I've found it not much more expensive than other sources. Some parts can even be much cheaper than say Halfords (who I would definitely not recomend as I have massive problems with some of their parts in the past)

 

An ebay seller is about as accountable as a car boot seller. Sure there are good ones but there is a lot of carp sold, fraudulently described and also counterfeit items. Chinese counterfeit product is very convincing and believe me, there is a lot out there.

 

Its you're choice, but don't complain if those discs warp or the pads fade on that mountain pass with all the kids in the car....... ^_^ :rolleyes:

Edited June 20, 2007 by seatkid

[Willie Krashitt]

Just to clear things up a little. As far as Ford Parts go:

 

If the carton says 'Genuine Ford Part' or whatever, and you bought it from a main dealer, then it will be a part that is the same as originally fitted, or equivalent from later production (new level parts are introduced all the time that sometimes, but not always become retrofit items.) These parts will be made by the original supplier to the factory, or in the factory itself, except in cases where the supplier is no longer in business.

If it says 'Motorcraft', then it will not necessarily be the same as original (but sometimes can be), but will be from a reputable source and the part will have been tested to the same standards as the original part. Somebody referred to these as pattern parts, and perhaps they are, but at least the quality is a given.

 

 

This is not unique to Ford - ALL the major manufacturers do this, so as to be able to remain competitive with aftermarket part suppliers.

[tim-spam]

.... there is a lot of carp sold ....

Sounds a bit fishy to me.

[mumof4]

.... there is a lot of carp sold ....

Sounds a bit fishy to me.

 

 

Carp can be a bit Koi sometimes... :rolleyes:

[sparky Paul]

An ebay seller is about as accountable as a car boot seller. Sure there are good ones but there is a lot of carp sold, fraudulently described and also counterfeit items. Chinese counterfeit product is very convincing and believe me, there is a lot out there.

 

Its you're choice, but don't complain if those discs warp or the pads fade on that mountain pass with all the kids in the car....... ^_^ :rolleyes:

 

That depends, the seller I mentioned is an established motor factors and a bona fide business. I would imagine you should have the same rights as if you were buying over their counter, with the additional rights from the Distance Selling Regulations which allow you to return goods for a refund.

 

Just to clear things up a little. As far as Ford Parts go:

 

If the carton says 'Genuine Ford Part' or whatever, and you bought it from a main dealer, then it will be a part that is the same as originally fitted, or equivalent from later production (new level parts are introduced all the time that sometimes, but not always become retrofit items.) These parts will be made by the original supplier to the factory, or in the factory itself, except in cases where the supplier is no longer in business.

If it says 'Motorcraft', then it will not necessarily be the same as original (but sometimes can be), but will be from a reputable source and the part will have been tested to the same standards as the original part. Somebody referred to these as pattern parts, and perhaps they are, but at least the quality is a given.

 

That's how I thought the Ford parts situation worked, but they only seem to stock one or the other depending upon which part it is. The question is, if you go in and ask for a set of discs for the Galaxy, will you be supplied with genuine OEM ATE discs, or will you get pattern 'Motorcraft' parts? Anyone had discs from Ford?

 

Here's another thing - the original factory ones I took off my Galaxy had the 'VW' logo cast into them, as do the calipers, but no sign of any reference to ATE. Are these the genuine ATE manufactured discs?

[Willie Krashitt]

According to eCat, there is only one disc available for the 2.3. Part number 95VWX-1125-BD. This is the original part as supplied to Azambuja plant. For a while you could get an alternative with a B1D suffix (Brembo?) but these are no longer available. Cost

[sparky Paul]

According to eCat, there is only one disc available for the 2.3. Part number 95VWX-1125-BD. This is the original part as supplied to Azambuja plant. For a while you could get an alternative with a B1D suffix (Brembo?) but these are no longer available. Cost

[Willie Krashitt]

The price is inc VAT, Pads for a '99 2.3 are

[sparky Paul]

The price is inc VAT

Even better still, ninety-odd quid for a pair of OEM discs isn't too bad really.

 

As you say, it is worth asking for a discount too. When I had a Vauxhall, I used to be quite friendly with the chap behind the parts counter at the local main dealer - As I went back regularly, he always used to put everything through at trade. It was a very small discount on some parts, but some of the service parts were discounted by up to 80%... It certainly opened my eyes after being charged full retail price for everything when they did the servicing.

 

I never used pattern parts on the Vauxhall, as the genuine items almost always worked out cheaper - sometimes considerably so, though it does rely upon finding a helpful main dealer stores...

[lim]

Hi,

 

I finally done it, this is how:

I ordered four items from ebay:

 

Minex Brakes and discs boxset =

[sparky Paul]

Looks a spiffing job, well done! :rolleyes:

 

The caliper bolts are very often really tight, the best thing is a good breaker bar, garages often use an air impact driver.

[lim]

My apologies to JDF for calling him JDE,

I think I need new glasses.

Very Sorry, many thanks to you for your help.

Cheers, JDF !

[vg1037]

Thanks for this idiots guide.

 

I will be replacing my front pads tomorrow and thius will help tremendously.

[peter777]

re- brake pads /discs, recently changed front brake pads/discs on a ,52 plate ford galaxy, found that brake pedal became very spongy, have since changed the brake master cylinder & the brake servo, only to find that their is still travel on the brake pedal. any other suggestions on how to cure the problem with the brake pedal travel, the car still stops o.k. but their is still some travel on the brake pedal any suggestions would be much appreciated